I’m pleased to read the FT magazine piece on “The rules of modern dining”, which invited a swath of food and drink experts and panellists spanning publications and continents to comment on the FT’s critics. Glaringly absent, however, was a chef’s perspective (Spectrum, March 22).
Some of the panellists may have worked in hospitality — Tim Hayward is a restaurateur and Ruth Reichl admitted experience waitressing. But none of 23 voices featured in your annotated guide comes from a chef currently working in a restaurant.
On matters such as whether an allergy should be announced in lieu of a dietary preference, or if tipping actually affects the livelihoods of restaurant staff, those working in the industry are the ones with the finger on the pulse. For instance, though panellists overwhelmingly voted in favour of tipping, most front of house staff in London will probably admit the monetary gesture is inconsequential. At some restaurants (like a one Michelin-star establishment I worked at), almost all the service charge goes towards the managers’ annual salaries. Chefs and front of house members are paid a fixed wage, which is paid in part by the 12.5 per cent service charge. Recent legislation regarding tronc — the pool into which waiters and waitresses pay their tips and into which some managements pay service charges for later distribution to staff according to agreed percentages — has reallocated more of the service charge to staff to reflect traffic, but most restaurant owners are loath to follow the rules.
I’m a chef and I enjoy reading the FT on my way home from work. Most chefs in Michelin-starred restaurants work upwards of 65 hours a week. Pluck any one of them off the street, and they’d probably have a good take on the topics your readers are so keen to get an honest perspective on.
Cheryl Cheung
London SE1, UK
